Grace in the Kitchen with Chives
As I write this, the temperature in midcoast Maine is 11°F with snow in the forecast. I’m counting the days before I can put my wool socks, mittens, sweaters, puffy jackets, and fleece-lined everything into storage until next winter.
Staring out at the gray, storm-threatening sky, I dream about my spring garden: daffodils, crocuses, and chives just starting to pop up. These are the no-maintenance, eternal harbingers of the season and unless the squirrels get to them first, there’s nothing for me to do but enjoy them. By mid-April, the chives will have puffy pink blossoms that are as pungent as they are beautiful. Their season is short, so I’ll take full advantage by adding them to salads, sauces, and scrambled eggs, or anywhere you’d use chopped chives.
When they’ve faded or been picked clean, I will use the chives themselves as often as possible. To get maximum bang for the buck, chive-infused oil is an intense expression of oniony green goodness. To make the chive oil, simply puree ½ cup coarsely chopped fresh chives with ½ cup neutral oil, such as grapeseed or safflower oil. Pure or light olive oil is fine too, but extra-virgin olive oil becomes bitter when blended at high speed. You can use the mixture as is, or strain it through two layers of cheesecloth for clear, emerald-colored oil. It’s delicious — and striking — drizzled over any type of seafood dish: risotto, pasta, pan-seared fish, and more. It lasts in the fridge for up to 2 weeks, but it won’t be around that long, I guarantee.
Chive compound butter is even easier to make than chive oil and just as yummy. Simply stir together 2 tablespoons of finely chopped fresh chives with 8 tablespoons unsalted butter and a pinch of salt. Roll the butter into a log using plastic wrap or parchment paper and refrigerate until ready to use. Cut it into slices and melt it over any type of fish dish. If wrapped tightly, the chive compound butter will last for months in the freezer.
The beauty and bounty of chives is that they come back every spring, stronger and fuller each year, especially if you take good care of them. Mine are decades old and originated from my childhood home. They’re a lovely reminder of my mom, who had the most beautiful English-style herb garden. Every time that I snip a fragrant handful, I think of my mom who to this day, continues to feed me.
Wishing you all a very happy spring! Now snip some chives!
Grace
