Where do You stand?
Chowder is loosely defined as a hearty seafood soup or stew which in addition to cod, haddock, or clams, typically includes potatoes, onions, bacon or salt port, and some type of broth. Originating in coastal New England, the soup base comes in 3 forms: white from cream or milk — known as New England-Style, clear from clam juice — Rhode Island-Style, or red from tomatoes — Manhattan-Style.
Spending childhood summers on Long Island’s south shore — where we spent hours raking up clams from the then-clean waters of the Long Island Sound — my mom always made Manhattan clam chowder, most likely because it resembled minestrone with some fresh clams thrown in. I’ve also spent a lot of time in New England, from where, incidentally, all three variations originated. In fact, geographically, Manhattan may have had little to do with this chowder’s creation. There are different accounts of its origin. Some say that Portuguese fishermen brought it to coastal New England. Others say a recipe appeared in the 1867 ''Hand-Book of Practical Cookery,'' by a New York chef, which he attributed to boatmen of the Harlem River.
New Englanders believe their milky chowder to be the Platonic ideal and don’t recognize the existence of any other clam chowder. Tiny but mighty Rhode Island holds firm in the belief that “clear” chowder is the “original” chowder, and therefore reigns supreme. And the Manhattan contingent stands in defiance of the other two.
All lay claim to the best, most iconic version of clam chowder but those regional differences in broth spark a hostility no less aggrieved than that of the NY Yankees vs the Boston Red Sox. A particularly dumb, but amusing Reddit discussion yielded some raucous (and many unprintable) responses:
“Manhattan clam chowder is not chowder, it's tomato soup with clams. I will die on this hill.”
“In 1939, Maine even made it illegal to add tomatoes to chowder.”
“…the sadly anemic looking Rhode Island clam chowder is escaping criticism with its smug clear broth.”
“.. Rhode Island style. It's an abomination.”
“Rhode Island style = seafood restaurant dishwater.”
“My Brooklyn-born father called NE style baby food. Manhattan all the way.”
Personally, I like all three versions because they offer different things: light and mild (RI), creamy and rich (NE), and tangy and bolstering (MH). The key for all is a flavorful, complex broth redolent of smoky bacon, rich seafood stock, and tender, briny seafood. Here are three classic versions of New England-, Rhode Island-, and Manhattan-style chowders plus a few more that would surely be ripped apart on Reddit.
Rhode Island-style Clam Chowder
Unlike creamy New England or tomato-based Manhattan clam chowders, the broth in Rhode Island clam chowder is light and clear. Thanks to smoky bacon and good quality seafood stock, it doesn’t suffer from the lack of cream or tomatoes. A little flour helps thicken the broth, but feel free to omit it for a gluten-free chowder.
Manhattan-style Clam Chowder
Light and brothy with just a hint of tomato, some purists might not even consider Manhattan clam chowder real chowder. Wherever you stand on the issue, whether you’re team Manhattan or team New England — or even team Rhode Island which is neither tomato-y nor creamy — this chowder is undeniably delicious. Plus you can serve it with crusty garlic bread for full effect.
New England Fish Chowder
New England fish chowder is typically made with haddock—similar in taste and texture to Pacific cod and rockfish—and not much else other than bacon, cream, clam juice, and potatoes. In the Yankee tradition, this chowder is pared down to its essentials, except for the thyme and parsley which may make a true New Englander chafe at the extravagance.
Creamy Seafood Corn Chowder
Corn kernels — fresh or frozen — add sweetness and texture to this New England-style chowder. Bacon is traditional, but entirely optional. Instead, add a pinch of smoked paprika or ½ cup of flaked smoked salmon or sablefish at the end for a hit of smoke and increase the butter to 3 tablespoons for richness. Shrimp and corn are amazing on their own, but feel free to add cubes of white fish for added flavor and texture.
Old Bay White Fish Chowder
This super satisfying, all-in-one, one-pot chowder combines meaty white fish, hearty potatoes, and baby spinach, flavored with Old Bay Seafood seasoning blend and comes together pretty quickly. It freezes well in single servings and is best rewarmed in the microwave or stovetop at a light simmer.
Creamy Chipotle Fish Chowder
Bacon and chipotle chiles double up the smokiness in this satisfying, warming chowder. Hominy, a key ingredient pozole, adds a tortilla chip-like flavor and a satisfying chew. If you can’t find it at your local grocery store, fresh or frozen corn is a fine substitute. Or, you could double up on the tortilla chips for garnish!
