Sitka can be a rough place in winter. Huge storms roll across the Pacific and unleash their fury on our coastlines. These storms bring towering seas and storm surges, but also buckets and buckets of rain. Sitka’s outer-coast location and limited road access make winter boating a challenge. Not only do we face nasty weather most days, but the lack of daylight becomes a real drag after daylight saving time starts in November. Many of you in upper latitudes experience this, but for Sitkans it can feel even more extreme. On the winter solstice this year, we have less than seven hours of daylight. That sounds negative, but many of us genuinely enjoy the winters here, so let’s get into how we make it work despite the weather.
For many who inhabit northern latitudes, the lack of sunlight during the winter months can affect health. To get enough vitamin D, many Sitkans take supplements, and many save their big vacations for the winter months. Another common strategy is to get outside, regardless of the weather. Like those in the Pacific Northwest, we dress in layers of waterproof gear, down, and wool. We prioritize practical outdoor gear over fashion, ensuring our waterproof layers shed water and keep us outside longer. Even on brutally rainy and windy days, there are glimpses of light and beauty to enjoy if you force yourself to get out there.
Despite the weather, our community stays incredibly active in winter by finding excuses to be outdoors. One of the most popular is hunting Sitka blacktail deer. With Sitka’s small town footprint and nearby wilderness, it’s an exceptional place to hunt. Baranof Island’s deer population outnumbers the human population by roughly four to one, providing healthy opportunities for harvest and wildlife management. The lack of heavy snow on the Southeast Alaska islands allows deer to move and feed, creating ideal habitat. Many of the best hunting areas are accessible by boat, so cold, wet boat rides are just part of the “getting out” ethos, no matter the weather.
The swell that pounds Sitka’s outer coasts has one notable extra benefit: surfing. In general, the rocky coasts of SE Alaska don’t offer many surf breaks. Even though there’s usually plenty of swell, the deep water-to-rocks geography means few breaking, surfable waves. Fortunately, right in town there’s a wintertime surf break known as Sandy Beach. It only breaks at high tide and with outer-coast swells over about 12 feet, and when there isn’t too much wind. Even with these specific conditions, there are multiple days to surf right out our backdoor. For the more intrepid, there are pounding reef breaks accessible by boat, but beware of being thrown onto the reef — the basalt (jagged volcanic rock) is sharp.
As fall turns to winter, the ocean’s temperature drops and the summer phytoplankton die off, making the water crystal clear. This creates excellent snorkeling and diving for those willing to brave the cold. After slipping into a thick wetsuit and entering water in the low 40s, divers can encounter remarkable sights and harvests. Rock scallops and Pinto abalone are abundant and prized locally. Unlike the numerous colorful fish of the tropics the waters of Alaska are full of colorful invertebrates. Pinkish coraline algae and all kinds of snails and crabs hustle around in the nutrient dense cold water. If you have never experienced cold ocean dives it is a real treat after you get over your face going numb and the initial cold shock of 42 degree water.
For those that don’t snorkel, there’s a dedicated group of women who cold plunge every day year-round, wearing only gloves and booties for warmth. Those tough ladies value the community and the refreshing feeling after a cold dip. For many locals, sauna sessions, cold plunges, and sauna rituals have become a popular winter practice to cope with the dark months.
The Scandinavians have mastered staying happy during the long cold winter and one of their most important ethos is to embrace the winter season of slowing down. Winters here are quieter after the busy summer, a time to focus on indoor projects, redecorate, play games with friends, or finally finish a long book. Is there a recipe you’ve saved but haven’t yet made? That gym membership that you haven’t been using? Take time to make your home cozy and embrace the season of slowing down. No matter where you spend your winter, take a page from Sitka’s book: slow down, find ways to enjoy the season, and get outside when you can — whatever the weather may be.
