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A Delusional Cook’s Guide to Surviving Winter

A whimsical manifesto for cold-weather denial and seafood-fueled escapism.

    Dreaming of warmer days

    Defy February. Eat Like It’s Summer.

    I’m not saying I hate winter, exactly. I’m just saying I’ve reached the part of winter where I open the freezer, stare at the contents, and wonder who’s colder — the halibut or me. In an article in last month's issue of The Catch — Winter in Sitka — Marsh waxed poetic about embracing the cold and squeezing in as much outdoor time as possible. That’s adorable. Meanwhile, I’ve got on 2 sweaters and a down vest, my skin feels like parchment paper, and I’ve practically floated away having subsisted on soup for the past 2 months.

    T.S. Elliot wrote in The Waste Land that April, with its inconsistencies, temperature fluctuations, and promise of warmth, is the cruelest month. But you know what’s really the cruelest month? Yup, February. At least with April, May is just a few weeks away. With February, we’ve got easily another twelve weeks before we can pack away those sweaters and even think twice about what SPF is going to be most effective. It is a gray, joy-sucked husk of a month and no amount of chowder is going to comfort me.

    So, what’s my survival technique? Well, it’s one heavily steeped in delusion. I imagine that I’m sitting at a seaside cafe, sipping something bubbly, and wearing some cute, sleeveless top. The waiter brings a plate of something light yet luscious — preferably from the ocean — I squeeze some lemon over top and pop it into my mouth. Or I imagine that I’m on my bike en route to my favorite picnic spot, lay out a blanket, set out my lunch of chilled something-or-other, and eat, en plein air.

    I’ve tried to lean in, to embrace the season, I really have, and often it works. But sometimes, you just have to defy reality and simply will the warm weather to return. I do that by cranking up the heat in my house (when my heat-conscious husband is not around) and eating things that come off a grill (stove top, of course) or out of a skillet — not a stew pot. I choose the light, bright dishes of the Mediterranean, Caribbean, South East Asia, and Latin America simply because they transport me somewhere warmer and sunnier. And if I douse them in sriracha or chili crisp, I can even work up a sweat.

    Here are a few “delusional” recipes to make it through the cruelest month.

    Stay warm,

    Grace

    Halibut and Sausage Skewers

    grill pans bring the outside in

    Meaty, lean halibut is the perfect foil for rich and fatty andouille sausage. Stay warm — grill inside. A cast iron grill pan works just as well as an outdoor grill.

    Seared Tuna Steaks with Smashed Cucumber Salad

    bring Santorini to your kitchen

    In this Greek-inspired dish, a bright and refreshing salad of cucumbers, tomato, feta, and mint perfectly balances the richness of the fish and takes you to a warm, sun-drenched seaside taverna.

    Shrimp Pad Thai

    Virtual trip to Bangkok

    Pad thai is one of the most popular noodle dishes for a reason — it perfectly unites flavors (sweet, tangy, spicy, fishy) and textures (chewy, crunchy, tender). This version, which uses readily available ingredients, comes together in less time than it takes to order from your local Thai restaurant. Imagine yourself eating it under a canopy of palm leaves and and listening to the chattering of monkeys.

    Creole-Spiced White Fish with Cheesy Grits

    Creole flavors, NOLA approved

    Dinner’s just about ready in the time it takes to cook the grits (quick grits, that is). And let’s be honest — there’s never a time when steamy New Orleans isn’t amazing.

    Vietnamese Summer Rolls

    Summer in February

    Denial doesn’t get more delicious than these seafood-filled rice paper rolls in winter. Summer rolls — sometimes called salad rolls or fresh spring rolls — are made with sheets of rice paper (bánh tráng) that are softened and wrapped around shrimp or pork, vermicelli rice noodles (bún), crunchy vegetables, and lots of tender herbs.