Spicy Salmon Chimichangas

Chimichangas are small, deep-fried burritos, and a staple of Tex-Mex and Southwestern cuisines. Salmon burger is the ideal choice for filling these savory tortillas, which are shallow-fried rather than deep fried. For an easier version, simply fill one side of the tortilla and fold it in half to form a quesadilla. Reduce the oil to a few tablespoons, adding more as needed to fry the quesadillas.

• 2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as grapeseed or canola, plus more for frying

• 1 cup seeded and chopped red or green bell pepper

• ½ cup finely chopped white or red onion

• 8 ounces salmon burger, thawed and blotted dry with paper towels

• 1 large garlic clove, finely chopped

• 1 tablespoon taco seasoning, or to taste

• Salt and freshly ground pepper

• 1 (15-ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed

• 2 tablespoons  chopped fresh cilantro, plus more for garnish

• 1 cup (4 ounces) shredded pepper jack or cheddar cheese

• 8 (8- to 10-inch) flour tortillas, lightly warmed and wrapped in a clean kitchen towel

• Sour cream and pico de gallo, for serving

• Sliced scallion, white and green parts, for garnish

In a large skillet, heat the 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the bell pepper and onion, and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 5 minutes. Crumble the salmon burger into the skillet, breaking it up with a spoon, then add the garlic, taco seasoning, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the salmon is cooked through and lightly browned in spots, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the black beans and cilantro, then transfer the mixture to a medium bowl. Let cool slightly.

Arrange the tortillas on a large work surface and scoop about ⅓ cup of the filling into the centers of each, dividing it evenly. Divide the cheese between the tortillas. Fold in the sides to slightly cover the filling, then roll up the tortillas to form small burritos.

Wipe out the skillet and heat ¼-inch of oil over medium heat until shimmering. Working in batches if necessary, add the chimichangas, seam side down, and cook just until golden brown on one side, about 1 minute. Continue to cook, turning occasionally, until golden brown all over, about 5 minutes total. Drain on paper towels. Alternatively, brush or spray the chimichangas with vegetable oil and air fry at 400°F for 10 to 15 minutes, turning once or twice.

Serve the chimichangas right away with sour cream and pico de gallo, and garnished with scallions and cilantro.

Crispy, fried foods perfectly pair with crisp, sparkling beverages such as vinho verde or cava for wine drinkers, and lager or pilsner for beer drinkers.

Add a pinch of chipotle chile powder to the filling for a smoky flavor.

Refrigerate or freeze the assembled but uncooked chimichangas to cook later.

Air-frying is a lower-fat option, but brushing or spraying the chimichangas with a little bit of oil will ensure that the tortillas are as golden and crisp as those from the frying pan.