Tuna Niçoise Burgers

Here, all of your favorite niçoise salad ingredients — olives, capers, anchovies, and mayo — are combined with fresh tuna and formed into burgers. Serve them with potato chips to complete the theme.

• 1¼ pounds albacore or ahi tuna, partially frozen 

• 2  scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced

• 12 kalamata olives, pitted and chopped

• 1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and minced

• Extra-virgin olive oil

• ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons mayonnaise

• 2 teaspoons anchovy paste, or mashed oil-packed anchovies

• 4  brioche rolls or potato buns, split

• Sliced fresh tomatoes and arugula, for serving

Slice the partially frozen tuna into strips then cut the strips into cubes. (If the tuna is completely thawed, freeze the cubes for 5 minutes until very cold.) Transfer the tuna to a food processor and pulse for 1-second intervals, about 8 times, until the tuna is finely chopped but not mushy. Alternatively, finely chop the tuna on a cutting board. Transfer the mixture to a bowl along with the scallions, olives, and capers and season lightly with salt and pepper. Stir to combine.

Using slightly moistened hands, divide the mixture into four mounds and form each into a 4-inch-wide patty.

Preheat a grill over medium-high heat and oil the grates. Alternatively, preheat a grill pan or cast-iron skillet on the stovetop over medium-high heat. Generously brush the burgers with oil and grill or sear, turning once until golden and crusty and just cooked through, about 6 minutes. Brush the cut sides of the buns with oil and toast, cut sides down, until golden brown.

In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise and anchovy paste. Spread the mixture on the toasted sides of the buns. Top each bun bottom with a tuna burger, tomato slices, and arugula. Close and serve right away with potato chips.

A light-bodied red such as pinot noir, gamay, or Beaujolais nouveau would be lovely here. For white wines look for something minerally and dry such as Greek assyrtiko or dry riesling are good.

Add 1 teaspoon each of Dijon mustard and chopped fresh dill to the mayonnaise.